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Just beyond Khao San Road, we peeked through a gate to see art vendors in a courtyard. We had accidentally discovered the National Arts Gallery. In the center was a sculpture exhibition, several artists’ meditations on Buddhism and its life in Thailand. Lots of figures in full lotus position, hollow bodies, life cycles, and eggs symbolizing rebirth, I suppose. My favorite was a massive, rugged wood stump with faces, horses, hands, carved into the fabric of the knots so naturally, they looked as though they had grown in that way. A little more wandering led us to the main gallery that encircled the courtyard. There was a lot of variety– bronze sculpture, portraits, paintings that were traditional, modern, abstract, figurative. Beautiful work.

Next, we caught a taxi to the north of Bangkok to the weekend market which was, for a non-shopper like myself, hell. Close, crowded, stiflingly hot, labrynthine, this was shopping to rival the wildest markets in Seoul. It was the first place we had gone in Bangkok where there were mostly Thai people. And were there ever Thai people! It was a fascinating sight but beyond overwhelming. We bought a few gifts, chugged out way through four water bottles, and could handle no more of the market. For the experience, we walked through the adjacent park to the BTS Sky Train station. We rode the smoothe route above the city to the Siam Station. A cheap taxi delivered us back to the now familiar home-to-travelers, Khao San Road.

With the few remaining hours until departing for the island, we went wandering again for food and for a book for Adam. retracing some of the alleys from the night before, we observed the perks of a warm climate culture: people walkig everywhere; all ages and types sitting on curbs, front stoops, car hoods, watching the world go by; buildings with only partial walls that flowed into and out of the street, inviting anyone to stop by and stay a while.

I must also mention the dogs. You probably know how I love dogs. Well, I love Thailand. Stray dogs are everywhere, napping under cars, following you as you shop, scavenging beside food vendors, trotting down the road. Dogs are everywhere. I know strays are bad for a city: they spread diseases to the other animals, they’re dirty, they erproduce like rabbits, yadda yadda yadda. Whatever. I love dogs, and they’re everywhere in Bangkok and the islands.

So, we wandered, pet a few dogs, took some photographs, and found our late-lunch spot. Little India, the best meal I have had in as long as I can remember. If you’re in Bangkok, go there. It’s down an alley close to Khao San Road, near a book shop. It’ll change your life. We ordered two samosas and a vegetarian thali plate with naan. And then, we waited. And waited. While we waited, we watched the British soccer game that was blaring on the TV mounted in the corner. Manchester vs. Manchester. Manchester won by one, even without Beckham. We still waited. Why were we waiting so long? Because the Indian guy in the sweltering kitchen behind the glass door was making our meal from scratch, just for us.

First, he brought the samosas. Huge and heavenly with perfect chutney, we devoured them in ecstacy. A little more waiting finally brought our host/ waiter/ cook/ Indian man to us again with our thali and fresh-made naan. We savored and groaned through the lentils, spinach, subji, and rice. Topped off with a sweet dough ball, rasgulab, it was unbelievable.

The book store didn’t offer Adam what he was looking for, so we ventured back to Sambara, ready to catch our bus south. A few minutes in the lobby with our nice host, and in came a spritely Thai guy in a red tee-shirt to take us to our bus. We heaved our backpacks on our shoulders and followed the fast walker to the other end of Khao San Road, stopping once at another guest house to pick up two tall Swedish girls. Red Shirt Guy led us to a double-decker bus where a larg group of travelers had congregated, almost all in twos.

-Jessica

more soon… heading to the island

(note… all the photos we’re using in these Thailand posts are borrowed images.  We’re taking some great photos, but we’ll upload them when we get home.)